- Author: Edie Warkentine
One of the current projects being undertaken by the Inyo-Mono County Master Gardeners is assisting in the revitalization, renewal and maintenance of the landscape at the Eastern Sierra Visitors Center (ESVC) in Lone Pine. Although the major emphasis of the project is the native plant garden, our fearless leader and Farm Advisor, Dustin Blakey, visited the ESVC to consult on some its other landscaping issues, resulting in a proposed landscape plan, which largely has been adopted and is in the process of implementation.
Recently, the BLM brought in a SCO team to assist in creating a saltgrass landscape in a portion of the property in the front of the ESVC. A significant portion of the property around the ESVC is covered in a variety of weeds and unwanted native plants; to create a “barrier” between that part of the property and the more developed property, which is covered in rocks and trees, Dustin suggested creating a saltgrass landscape, by taking plugs of saltgrass already growing on the property and creating a cohesive mass that can ultimately grow together into a beautiful carpet of saltgrass.
Since there was healthy saltgrass growing around the base of some of the trees, we transplanted plugs of that saltgrass to the empty landscape. The biggest challenge was loosening the soil enough to be able to remove plugs and then plant them. Water was used to loosen the soil, and the SCO crew had electronic augers, which they used to dig holes for the new plants. Holes were just large enough to accommodate the plug's root casing and to permit planting of the plug at the same soil depth as its place of origin. As one crew member removed a plug from beneath a tree, another planted it in the hole.
Immediately after planting, the plugs were watered from a nearby garden hose. The current challenge is keeping the soil evenly moist, but not soaked, until new growth appears. At that point, we will be able to determine a more permanent watering schedule, according to the specific needs of the plant.
It is a bit early in the season to accomplish the task of transplanting saltgrass, but an important lesson is to use human resources when they are available!
For additional information on saltgrass, see:
- Author: Alison Collin
During last decade's drought I watched our once green lawn deteriorate into strips of yellowish grass much interspersed with dandelions, infested with Bermuda grass and with occasional eruptions of lantern stinkhorns and morels. It was a depressing sight, and certainly not worthy of a Master Gardener!
For years I had wanted to rip out the lawn which had subterranean irrigation provided by drip tubing buried 4” deep at 16” intervals. With reduced irrigation there was no lateral spread of water so that grass was now only growing along the tubing lines. I had no idea of what to do instead. I certainly did not want a front yard of bare dusty soil with one or two chunks of rock. a couple of cacti and a few native plants since I see those all the time in the local desert. However, the replacement plants must have low irrigation needs, flower over a long season, must attract pollinators of all sorts, and not be invasive.
Then I came across a TV series presented by Monty Don, called “Big Dreams, Small Spaces.” In each episode he would visit a couple of gardens and advise the homeowners on how to tackle remodeling their gardens. He would then return throughout the year to monitor progress. I was hooked! I watched the whole series through twice and learned a lot. Suddenly I knew exactly what I wanted to do and was confident that I could it.
I would install a large path around the raised bed, with four paths radiating from it. Another path would be installed from the front door to the side gate of the house. This would give me four roughly equal plots for flowers.
My husband had no problems understanding what I wanted and after a lot of measuring and adjustments drew up scale plans.
It was now up to me to create my “Big Dream”.
Part 2 will cover the irrigation and planting. Be sure to check back soon!
- Author: Cheryl A. Wilen
- Posted by: Gale Perez
From the Retail Nursery an Garden Center IPM News Fall 2018 newsletter
Managing Weeds in Landscapes
Woody Trees and Shrub Beds
Control perennial weeds before planting, although weed control can also be done after planting. Densely planted areas will reduce weeds. Geotextile (landscape) fabrics rather than black plastic used with a shallow layer of mulch will keep weeds from emerging. If customers mulch without a geotextile base, the mulch layer must be thicker to prevent weed emergence.
If needed, customers can use a preemergence herbicide to control annual weeds and supplement with hand weeding and spot applications of postemergence herbicides for weeds that are not well-controlled by hand weeding, such as perennial grasses.
Woody Ground Cover Beds
Mature, woody ground cover beds should exclude most weeds; however, when ground cover is just establishing, weed growth is likely. Perennial weeds must be controlled before planting, although perennial grasses may be selectively controlled after planting with a grass-selective herbicide like sethoxydim (Grass-Getter). Annual weeds may be controlled with mulch plus a preemergence herbicide but rooting of stolons in new plantings may be affected. Customers will need to supplement with some hand weeding.
Annual Flower Beds
A dense planting in annual flower beds will help shade out and compete with many weeds. Flower species should be carefully selected for weed management compatibility. Periodic cultivation at 3- to 4-week intervals and between flower beds plant rotations will also suppress weeds. Perennial weeds must be controlled before planting. Annual weeds can be controlled with mulches, preemergence herbicides, frequent cultivation, and/or hand weeding. Control perennial grasses with grass-selective herbicides like clethodim, sethoxydim, or fluazifop. Avoid nonselective herbicides in annual flower beds after planting.
Herbaceous Perennial Beds
Weed management options in herbaceous perennial beds are similar to those for annual flowers, except that it is more important to eradicate perennial weeds as there will be no opportunity to cultivate or renovate the bed for several years; and fewer species are included on herbicide labels. Geotextiles may be used in these types of plantings. Manage weeds with mulches and supplement with hand weeding. If needed, use preemergence herbicides after hand weeding.
Mixed Plantings of Woody and Herbaceous Plants
Weed management in mixed plantings is complex because of the diversity of species. Different areas of the bed could receive different weed treatments. Site preparation is critical because post-plant herbicide choices are few. Plant the woody species first and control perennial weeds in the first two growing seasons, then introduce the herbaceous species. Plant close together to shade the soil. Group plants within the bed that will receive similar weed management programs.
In most landscape situations, herbicides should not normally be needed by home gardeners. Mulching, removal by hand, and proper irrigation (pattern and amount of water) are sufficient in most cases. Find more information in the newly revised Pest Notes: Weed Management in Landscapes at http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7441.html.
Cheryl Wilen is the UC IPM/UCCE Area IPM Advisor for San Diego, Orange, and Los Angeles counties (cawilen@ucanr.edu).
Subscribe to the Pests in the Urban Landscape Blog (https://ucanr.edu/blogs/ucipmurbanpests/.)
/h2>Fall 2018 issue of Retail Nursery and Garden Center IPM News
- Author: Christine Casey
My last post covered the use of color in garden design from the perspective of what bees see. While aesthetics are important in any garden, the needs of bees come first at the Haven and other bee gardens. Here are a few examples of color combinations that are attractive to us and provide both pollen and nectar for bees.
Shades of purple throughout the year
As was mentioned in my last post, purple is a color that bees see well. Here are some ideas for shades of purple throughout the year:
Winter: rosemary (nectar), germander (nectar), ceanothus (pollen and nectar), phacelia (pollen and nectar)
Spring:ceanothus (pollen and nectar)
Summer: sages (nectar), Russian sage (nectar), zinnia (pollen and nectar), cosmos (pollen and nectar)
Fall: aster (pollen and nectar), bluebeard (pollen and nectar)
Shades of yellow throughout the year
As a complementary color to purple, yellow is attractive against any of the plants listed above. Some yellow flower choices include:
Winter:bidens (pollen and nectar), blanketflower (pollen and nectar)
Spring:bidens (pollen and nectar), blanketflower (pollen and nectar), lupine (pollen and nectar)
Summer: sage (nectar), sunflower (pollen and nectar)
Fall: sunflower (pollen and nectar)
Summer whites
Spring: Santa Barbara daisy(pollen and nectar), buckbrush (pollen and nectar)
Summer: Santa Barbara daisy (pollen and nectar), gaura (pollen), veronica (pollen), coneflower (pollen and nectar), zinnia (pollen and nectar), cosmos (pollen and nectar), California buckwheat (pollen and nectar)
Fall:gaura (pollen), California buckwheat (pollen and nectar)
Hot colors throughout the year
Winter: California poppy (pollen), Cape balsam (pollen and nectar)
Spring: Cape balsam (pollen and nectar), sage (nectar)
Summer: Cape balsam (pollen and nectar), coneflower (pollen and nectar)
Fall: Cape balsam (pollen and nectar), sage (nectar), sedum (pollen and nectar)
/div>/div>- Author: Lucia G. Varela
- Editor: Karen Giovannini
Want to know what bug is making holes in the leaves of you shrub or eating your fruit? Or what is the pesky weed you cannot get rid off? The University of California Division of Agriculture and Natural Resources publications have four sets of Pest Identification cards for you. These pocket-size, sturdy, laminated cards can be easily carried with you as a quick reference wherever you need them. The sets are also available as electronic publications formatted for iOS and Kindle compatible devices.
The Vineyard Pest Identification and Monitoring Card set is the perfect quick reference to stay on top of pest activity in your vineyard. The 50 cards covers 41 common insect pests and mites, 11 diseases, 23 beneficial insects, weeds, and invertebrate pests. Each pest is identified by a description and excellent close-up color photographs with 244 photos in all. On the reverse of each card is a description of the various life stages and monitoring tips. The cards include everything from mealybugs and phylloxera to leafhoppers and Eutypa dieback, all of which have an impact on California vineyards. It also includes descriptions of natural enemies as well as handy inch and metric measurement scales.
These cards are also available as a separate card set, publication #3538, in Spanish. You can purchase each card set alone or in bundles for a price break. The bundles are perfect for vineyard managers and crews.
Each weed is identified by a description and excellent close-up color photographs of various growth stages with 187 photos in all. On the reverse of each card is a description of growth stages, habitat, distribution and management tips. It also includes handy inch and metric measurement scales. A sturdy rivet keeps the set together so individual cards don't go astray.
A new set Pests of the Garden and Small Farm Cards is coming out soon. Stay tuned for its release.
To purchase the card sets or electronic versions, visit the University of California Division of Agriculture and Natural Resources publication catalog. Refer to the table below for the publication number.
Or click on the publication number below and the link will take you to that page in the catalog.
Publication name |
Card set Publication |
EPUB for iOS |
MOBI for Kindle |
Landscape Pest ID |
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Vineyard Pest ID and Monitoring |
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Identificacion de plagas de la vid |
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Weed Pest ID and Monitoring |
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Tree Fruit ID |
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Backyard gardeners, if you still cannot identify that weed, bug or problem with your plant, you can always bring a sample to our office. There is a drop box available to leave samples after hours.
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